A Scenic Journey from Matsumoto to Takayama: Antiques, Ice Pillars, and Traditional Ryokan Experiences
Today, we set off from Matsumoto to Takayama, with a route planned to include several interesting stops along the way. Here's a glimpse of our adventure:
First Stop: Narai-juku (奈良井宿)
We arrived in Narai-juku, a quaint town known for its preserved traditional architecture. Surprisingly, the town felt peaceful and sparsely populated, leaving us with more curiosity than expectations. As we explored, we stumbled upon a charming antique shop, 旅する古物商-hito.to-
The store's interior was simple but full of character. It was like stepping into another time, with European-style decorations and rare antiques that reflected the early Western influences on Japan. I was delighted by the presence of nostalgic items such as Russian nesting dolls, Kewpie dolls, old utensils, and retro trinkets. The ambiance was serene, enhanced by the soft melody of a piano playing in the background. I couldn't help but imagine how wonderful it would be to enjoy tea and cake on antique plates in a cozy on-site café here.
Second Stop: Kiso Fukushima Free Public Footbath (木曽川親水公園)
We then made our way to the Kiso Fukushima Free Public Footbath. The footbath itself was small, with just a couple of people soaking their feet. We wandered around for a bit, but by the time we returned, the same couple was still there, so we decided to skip this stop and continue our journey.
On the way, we passed an Aeon Supermarket in Kiso Town and picked up some sushi and snacks for lunch. I’ve always loved shopping at Aeon—they offer freshly prepared food at affordable prices, and the meals are delicious. In a small town like Kiso, it’s a convenient option for a quick and tasty bite.
Insights from Narai-juku and Kiso Town
Both Narai-juku and Kiso Town reflect the reality of Japan’s aging population. We noticed many empty houses and shops, some in need of repair, and not many cars passing by (perhaps because it was a holiday). The people we encountered in the supermarket were mostly elderly, and one sweet interaction stood out to me: when a grandmother accidentally bumped into my husband, she immediately apologized, then smiled and touched his shoulder. It was such a warm and endearing gesture, especially considering how reserved Japanese culture typically is with physical contact.
Despite the quiet nature of these towns, it was inspiring to see the energy of younger folks running unique businesses, like the antique shop we visited. Their efforts bring life to the community, and I truly hope their businesses continue to thrive.
Third Stop: Shirakawa Ice Pillars (白川氷柱群)
Next, we arrived at the Shirakawa Ice Pillars—a stunning natural display. Located right off the highway, they’re easy to miss if you’re driving too fast, so be sure to follow your GPS and slow down when you’re nearby. We parked next to a restaurant/house, and the kind owner allowed us to park for free (a nice gesture—please remember to be respectful and avoid noise or littering when visiting).
The path leading down to the river was slippery, with many rocks along the way, so be careful! Despite the temperature hovering around 0°C, I was amazed to see the ice pillars still standing strong. Some of them were crystal clear, while others had sharp, jagged edges. The clear, peaceful water flowing nearby added to the serene atmosphere, and all I could hear was the gentle sound of the river.
Next Stop: A Scenic Route Through Takayama
The two-hour drive from Shirakawa to Takayama was nothing short of breathtaking. Snow-covered forests, winding rivers, and picturesque bridges lined the route, making every turn feel like a postcard moment. While a faster route from Matsumoto was an option, we had time to spare before check-in and opted for the longer, more scenic drive—an unforgettable detour well worth taking.
Final Stop: Hirayukan in Takayama 湯めぐりの宿 平湯館
Our final destination was Hirayukan, a ryokan in Takayama.
We arrived right at 4 p.m., check-in time, and immediately noticed the unique feature of this ryokan: no outdoor shoes are allowed inside. We locked our shoes in a locker and received keys to our room, which was a traditional Japanese-style room with a private toilet but no shower (a common feature in ryokan). The price was ¥35,200, which included both breakfast and dinner for two.
The room itself was lovely, with dual-layered windows for insulation and a heater we could control. Although the insulation wasn't perfect, the entire building was warm, so we were comfortable. We had amenities like air conditioning, an air purifier/humidifier, a fridge, yukata, and towels. They even gave us little bags of goodies, which included socks and towels.
We couldn't wait to head to the onsen, and let me tell you, it was an experience. There were two floors of outdoor onsens, alternating by gender twice a day. On a chilly -8°C evening, soaking in the outdoor onsen while watching the snow fall was an unforgettable moment. The water was milder than usual, which was perfect for me. Afterward, we headed to dinner.
Dinner at the Ryokan
The dinner experience was a bit chaotic due to the holiday crowds. The buffet-style setup was bustling, and I could hear the sounds of children and people rushing around. The warm temperature inside the restaurant was overwhelming, and the greasy, smoky smell from the barbecue section made it less enjoyable than I had hoped. However, the food itself was delicious, and the hotpot was especially satisfying.
Despite the hectic atmosphere, things calmed down toward the end of dinner, and I was able to relax and enjoy my meal.
A Peaceful Morning at the Onsen
The next morning, I woke up early and headed to the onsen again—this time on the second floor. As always, the hot water was refreshing, especially on a cold morning. Afterward, I enjoyed a free Yakult drink from the fridge (such a refreshing treat) and even managed to do some laundry before breakfast. It felt incredibly productive!
Breakfast was much quieter, with a calming atmosphere and a beautiful snowy view outside. The meal was lighter than dinner but still filling, with plenty of options such as beans, fish cake, and marinated seafood. My favorite was the breakfast bowl of okra and fish on rice with miso soup.
Exploring Takayama
After checking out and slipping back into my own shoes, we took some time to explore Takayama. The town was beautiful, with steam rising from the hot springs at every corner. Some shops even had small outdoor hot water stations for selling hard-boiled eggs. There were also giant ice pillars around the town, and trees covered in ice instead of snow—such a magical sight!
We wandered past a shrine with snow-covered white pillars, and nearby, we found another free footbath and onsen. The traditional thatched roofs of the buildings added a rustic charm, with some even covered in moss.
Takayama is truly a special place—quiet, serene, and full of unique experiences. I highly recommend staying in a traditional Japanese room at the ryokan for an authentic and relaxing experience!